別再把Saint Laurent當成Hedi Slimane的專屬名字，Anthony Vaccarello今仗水花四濺的成功可謂毋容置疑。巴黎時裝週開幕，想不到Anthony‭ ‬Vaccarello把模特兒送上水波粼粼的天橋。沒有驚濤駭浪，碧波蕩漾，唯有錯落有致的水珠在這一片黑暗色顯得分外迷人。不管你是屬意舊主Hedi Slimane，還是Anthony Vaccarello，這場時裝秀都不容錯過。

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巴黎經典回溯

先說歷史。‭ ‬Heidi Silmane執掌時期曾經把品牌工坊遷移到美國，後來Anthony Vaccarello上任後便把Saint Laurent回歸母親的懷抱。如是者不出眾人所料，今次Saint Laurent‭ ‬SS19時裝秀同樣選址落在正對著埃菲爾鐵塔照耀下的Trocadéro投卡德侯花園。前主的經典印象深入人心，但Anthony Vaccarello絕非平凡之輩，巴黎讓品牌融合過去同時象徵新時代。

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性解放之魅力

「Young‭ ‬Sexy Lovely」三個形容詞大概就是Saint Laurent女孩予筆者的印象，聽起來老土卻仍然期昐Anthony Vaccarello能變出什麼花樣。他開宗明義提到本秀理念源自1972年聖羅蘭先生為畢卡索女兒Paloma Picasso打造的系列。Anthony Vaccarello把剪裁精成更細長修身的剪影，羽毛狀乳頭胸罩、緊身胸衣褲、黑金色皮革短褲、黑色絲襪⋯⋯‭ ‬燒毀胸罩等性解放是Saint Laurent貫有的黑暗魅力。筆者樂於看見品牌經典之最Le Smoking燕尾服重現。名為「Le Smoking」的女性時裝革命顛覆傳統穿衣的保守風氣，重新喚起服裝不但唯有蔽體之用。

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今次Saint Laurent的黑色盛會最亮眼的固然是一眾名人的加持，到場的包括Cindy Crawford、徐熙娣、戚薇、Lindsay Lohan等嘉賓都穿上酷帥的服飾大膽宣稱自己的別緻魅力。筆者私心喜歡的是時尚教主李聖經‭ ‬。這次赴會的李聖經穿著黑暗對稱緊身連衣裙，外搭一對長靴，手上提著豹紋YSL標誌手袋，看慣她平日甜美可愛的復古造型，亦會被她這股純粹的黑暗魅力所迷倒。

猜您喜歡，SS19專題全在這裏‭>>>‬點擊重溫吧！