#NoFreePhotos:到底是何時開始,時裝週重點已不在場內而是場外? - HOKK fabrica

#NoFreePhotos:到底是何時開始,時裝週重點已不在場內而是場外?

HF Crewon September 25, 2017 at 12:00 pm

每一季的時裝週, 場內的閃光燈不斷是理所當然,場外你也可以見到數十個攝影師圍着一個「模特兒」拍照的壯觀景象,而這些都已經是見怪不怪了。不過上週的米蘭時裝週,場外似乎比場內還要熱鬧一點,街頭時裝攝影師和時尚博主們發生了一點小衝突。

上週末,街頭攝影師在社交網絡上發起#NoFreePhotos運動,向一些沒有尊重他們攝影作品的時尚博主表達不滿。這些街頭攝影師們向WWD表示,品牌和博主經常利用攝影師們受版權保護的照片,以履行他們對品牌付的責任。

在時裝週期間,不少品牌會跟一些時尚博主合作,要求他們穿上自己品牌的衣服,然後他們的任務就是要被拍攝,然後在社交網站或媒體上曝光。博主們可以得到品牌的付費或以衣服作為酬勞,但他們卻忽略了一群在背後免費為他們拍照的一群攝影師們。

#NoFreePhotos運動發起後,David Nyanzi、Chris Choi等著名的街頭時尚攝影師也響應參與。他們指,這個運動並不是要掀起兩者之間的戰爭,也不是要抵制時尚博客,因為他們知道兩者的工作是互惠互利的關係,他們只是希望他們的作品能夠得到尊重。這個運動的目的並不是要在博主們身上抽取金錢利益,只是希望他們在張貼照片時不要提任何一個品牌,以及標記照片來源。

A post shared by David Nyanzi (@davidnyanzi) on

A post shared by David Nyanzi (@davidnyanzi) on

A post shared by STREETPER (@streetper) on

但攝影師和博主們卻各執一詞,時尚博主Bryanboy就在自己的社交網站中回應這場活動,表示不是每一個參與時裝週的人都有得到報酬,他就只其中一個,而他亦沒有收到免費的衣服。同樣地,攝影師也向雜誌或品牌出售他們的影像而沒有經過被攝者的同意。

#NoFreePhotos Has anyone read the WWD piece about street style photogs? How they are not being paid while the influencers are? To quote the collective, “disproportionate gain being derived by influencers”. While I have enormous respect to all of these lensmen (and women), the notion that many influencers are being “disproportionately” paid to wear clothes is quite laughable. Do these photographers know how absolutely CHEAP and I mean CHEAP many of the brands are? They have budget to spend tens of thousands of dollars on a printed page on a magazine that only a handful of people read at the hair salon. But they clearly don’t have budget to spend on people online and they feel they shouldn’t be compensated. A lot of the girls I know are NOT being paid to wear clothes. Many spend money to go back and forth for “fittings”, borrow samples and are often dressed by brands to be on their “good graces”. Some even dress them and plonk them on second or third row. All for free! And influencers are happy to do all that shit to develop a (usually disposable) “relationship” with brands who are more than happy to move on to the next girl with even more followers. For the most part, brands often work with influencers on special projects either on the brands’ or influencer’s channels and more often than not, they don’t involve third party photographers. I obviously understand the photographers’ need to be compensated. But then again, when was the last time an influencer demanded a model release form from photographers who sell their images to magazines, retailer websites or the brands directly? Imagine if every influencer or editor or fashion person started complaining that their images are being taken AND sold without authorization? Class action lawsuit much? Point to ponder. I like to think that everyone should win in this symbiotic ecosystem. Think about it: girl gets famous online on her own, gains the attention of brands and starts to go to fashion week/month/circus looking like a clown. Street photogs then starts shooting the said girl, often in borrowed clothes and uncompensated, and her images are sold to different outlets… where’s the disconnect?

A post shared by Bryanboy (@bryanboycom) on

Bryanboy亦提出如果要解決這個行業的問題,大概首先要喚醒時尚界,無論是攝影師、作家,還是模特兒都必須停止這場work-for-free(免費勞動)的文化。

不過想起來到底是何時開始,時裝週的重點已經不在服裝的設計,而是各種的擺拍,到底時裝週的重點應該放回場內,還是場外,也是另一個值得反思的時尚生態。

Source

TEXT: WING IN F/HOKK FABRICA
DESIGN: /HOKK FABRICA

Send this to a friend