Meeting Kim Youngsil：專訪韓國簡約風首飾設計師
Call me materialistic, but who would forgo a jewelry present, and who would not get upset if their fiancé didn’t hand out an engagement ring on a wedding proposal? Whether it’s an engagement ring, a keepsake from the deceased, or an ecclesiastical ring, we constantly identify ourselves with jewelry and put meaning to it.
This time around, Hf met Korean jewelry designer Kim Youngsil, who goes by the alias and brand name Saint S.il, to hear about being a jewelry designer and some tipson wearing gems.
儘管稱我為物質主義，但誰會拒絕一份首飾禮物，或者是在被求婚時沒有求婚戒誰不會難過呢？無論是訂婚戒指、家傳之寶或結婚戒指，我們都會不斷尋求自己與珠寶之間的關係，賦予它不同的意義。
這次Hf遇上以自己的名字，把品牌命名為Saint S.il的韓國首飾設計師Kim Youngsil，一起聽聽她跟我們分享她的工作的點滴和配戴飾物的貼士。
Y: Kim Youngsil | Hf: HOKK fabrica
中：中文翻譯
Hf: Hello. Please introduce yourself.
中：你好，請你介紹一下自己吧！
K: I am a jewelry designer based in Seoul, Korea. I own a jewelry shop named “Saint S.il,” which comes from a combination of my father’s favorite word and my name. I am also a mother of a five-week-old son. I am an avid fashion lover too.
中：我是一個韓國首飾設計師，我所開設的首飾店「Saint S.il」是以我父親最喜歡的字和我的名字結合而命名的。我有一個5星期大的兒子，同時我亦是一個時裝發燒友。
Hf: How did you become a jewelry designer?
中：你是如何成為一個首飾設計師？
Y: I became interested in art during my high school years and eventually majored in metal design at Hanyang University. I didn’t like how the professors were teaching us dull routines, so I started making my own jewelry and posted them on my blog three years ago. Surprisingly, the blog became popular and many bloggers were asking if they could buy my products, so I opened up a workroom, this time with silver materials included, to officially kickstart a career. I opened up a store afterwards.
中：當我仍是高中生時，我已經對藝術有興趣，最終在漢陽大學修讀金屬設計。我不喜歡學校所教授沉悶的一套，所以我3年前開始自製首飾並把作品放上Blog。出乎意料之外，我的Blog變很受歡迎，很多人都有興趣購買我的作品。所以我就開設自己的工作室，並加入了銀作為物料，這樣就正式成為首飾設計師，之後更擁有自己的店舖。
Hf: What are some of your brand’s distinct features?
中：你的品牌有甚麼特色？
S: Our products are 100% hand-made. We have a work room behind our store, where we have four craftswomen working hard to meticulously craft products for our customers. I would prefer our products to be distinct from the plethora of factory-made products, so we use more gemstones than cubics, and in doing so, we try our best to preserve the rawness of the gemstones.
中：我的作品是100%人手製造。在店舖後有一個工場，那裡有四個工匠為顧客製造精緻的產品。我希望我的產品可以和一式一樣的工廠製品有分別，所以我們喜歡選用未加工的寶石多於已經切割完成的，另外亦會盡力去保留寶石的原始感。
Hf: Could you give us a peek into the new collection for 2015 S/S?
中：能否簡單介紹你今年的春夏季作品？
Y: For the new season, Saint S.il’s products feature layered necklaces and rings in carefully selected designs. You could layer them as you like by choosing which layer of necklace you want to appear on top of clothes.
中：對於春夏季，Saint S.il的產品以層次感重的項鍊和戒指作設計特色。你可以自由選擇與衣服搭配的首飾為頂層 。
Hf: How does your daily work routine go?
中：你的日常工作流程是怎樣？
Y: It’s always different, but normally, we have design meetings in the mornings, and then everyone’s off to do their work. I do some work too, such as sampling, but I run to meetings in the afternoon with buyers and fashion designers, and I like to entertain myself visually by visiting brand stores. As a matter of fact, I get most of my inspiration from fashion. I think of ways to implement the trending colors or patterns from fashion to my jewelry brand.
中：我的工作流程經常改變，但通常早上都會有設計會議，然後每個人就做好自己負責的部份。我亦有其他工作，例如檢查樣品，但我多數下午都會有與買手和時裝設計師開會，我亦會到訪不同品牌的店舖去令自己快樂。事實上，我大部份的靈感都是來自時裝，我會嘗試把時裝界流行的顏色和圖案應用於我的首飾設計上。
Hf: Who do you admire?
中：你最欣賞的人是誰？
Y: Karl Lagerfeld. I really like the buttons that he makes at Chanel products. It’s like a piece of art. All of them are different. Their brooches so pretty too, made out of resin. It’s so detailed. I’m always impressed how he does such a good job of it. Nowadays, I come to think of how jewelry can be embedded in fashion accessories too, such as in handbags.
中：我最欣賞的是Karl Lagerfeld，我真的很喜歡他為Chanel產品所造的鈕扣，就像一件藝術品，每一粒都不一樣。他所製的胸針亦很精緻， 以樹脂製成，造工非常仔細。他的作品美得讓人留下深刻印象。現在我也在想如何令首飾變成像手袋一樣的時裝配件。
Photo via Chanel & Etsy
Hf: Could you give us some tips on layering jewels?
中：能給我們一些首飾配搭貼士嗎？
Y: Jewelry and fashion go together. The most basic one would be matching gold accessories with warm-toned colors such as beige and brown, while silver accessories would go along well with cool-toned colors such as white and blue. Also, if the outfit I wore that day has too much patterns and colors, I prefer to keep accessories on a low key by arranging simple ones to balance out the flamboyant look.
When you want to put on multiple jewels, I would advise you to put the main, bold ring on the index finger along with simple ones such as knuckle rings on the side fingers.
中：把首飾和時裝一起配搭。最基本的是用金色的飾物配搭暖色系衣服，如米色和棕色；而銀色飾物則會去配搭冷色系，如白色和藍色。另外，假如衣服上有太多圖案和色彩，我會利用簡單的飾品去平衡整個造型。當你想戴上幾款戒指，我會建議你把最重點、最粗的戴在食指，其他手指則配搭簡單的款式，如關節戒指。
Learn more about Kim YoungSil
Instagram：@saints.il
網頁: saintsil.com
Photos courtesy of Saint S.il
