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今年，維多利亞時期風格如何突圍而出？

維多利亞時期風格
 

細數對時裝界影響深遠的歷史時期，非歌德（Gothic)、洛可可（Rococo）以及維多利亞時期（Victorian Era)莫屬。在變化萬千的時裝世界裡，這幾個獨特的風格依然獲無數的設計師使用；今年，從天橋到街頭，嫵媚而繁複的維多利亞時期風格則突圍而出，成為了時裝界的「香餑餑」。這個時期究竟留下了什麼特色？而這些特色又如何融入了現代化的時裝而備受注目呢？

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Gigot Sleeves

維多利亞時期中最為經典的袖型之一就是羊腿袖（gigot sleeves）。羊腿袖的設計自肩膊處開始漲起，然後慢慢收窄至手腕處；在視覺效果上，肩膊的巨大形狀能突顯纖瘦的腰身，是當時的女性最為喜愛的袖型。

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除此之外，同樣深受歡迎的還有帕夫袖（puff sleeve），亦即是我們所熟悉的泡泡袖。來到今季，最受矚目的就是這些膨脹的袖子。

+延伸閱讀 | 利獻靈和萬波ユカ──她們在時尚圈出雙入對，成為了限定組合

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ZIMMERMANN Corsage Bauble pompom-embellished linen mini dress

Corsage mini dress ZIMMERMANN HK$13,160 View Item

ZIMMERMANN Ninety-Six Wave rickrack-trimmed ramie and linen mini dress

Rickrack-trimmed mini dress ZIMMERMANN HK$9,485 View Item

REJINA PYO Sibylle Polka Dot Dress

Sibylle Polka Dot Dress REJINA PYO HK$6,914 View Item

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI Estella printed silk-blend jacquard mini dress

Jacquard mini dress PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI HK$8,208.78 View Item

2-SQUARE NECKLINE

維多利亞時期的領口款式眾多，除了早前Hf所分析過的伯莎領（Bertha neckline）外，另一款不得不提及的款式就是於1850-1870年新洛可可時期所流行的低胸方形領。

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這款領口承繼了洛可可時期的性感，在維多利亞時期卻較為低調，雖然亦用上了蕾絲等圍著領口作裝飾，但相比洛可可時期的華麗，這個時期的低胸方形領口卻明顯較簡潔 。來到現代，款式就更為簡約了，只保留其特別的正方形狀，並無繁複的蕾絲或蝴蝶結作裝飾。

+延伸閱讀 | Style Capsule：從領口的變化淺談古往今來的地位象徵

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VERONICA BEARD Frankie striped cotton-blend poplin top

Cotton-blend poplin top VERONICA BEARD HK$1,815 View Item

RHODE Harper smocked cotton-gauze midi dress

Midi dress RHODE HK$2,310 View Item

Nightwalker Lola Dress

Lola Dress Nightwalker HK$1,059.16 View Item

re:named Puff Sleeve Ruched Dress

Puff Sleeve Ruched Dress re:named HK$392.28 View Item

3-RUFFLES

除蕾絲以外，另一個不能忽略的維多利亞時期元素就是荷葉邊（ruffles），無論在上身或下身都能看見其蹤影。

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當時，荷葉邊能刻畫出大家閨秀的古典溫婉，通常會圍繞在領口作點綴，或配以圓枱裙（circle skirt）的設計作修飾。在芸芸設計當中，以荷葉邊為領口的服裝尤其受歡迎。

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Moncler Genius 4 Moncler Simone Rocha Beige Floral Skirt

Beige Floral Skirt Moncler HK$11650 View Item

ZIMMERMANN Juniper cotton pintuck skirt

Pintuck skirt ZIMMERMANN HK$5,750 View Item

CLAUDIE PIERLOT Calmi frilled cotton shirt

Calmi frilled cotton shirt CLAUDIE PIERLOT HK$2,690 View Item

A.P.C. Off-White Erwin Blouse

Erwin Blouse A.P.C. HK$1830 View Item

Pleats

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時至今日，相比維多利亞時期，打摺長裙的設計變得更簡潔和具現代感，而從未被抹去的就是那收腰的設計，今季的打褶長裙側特別注重飄逸的感覺和突出腰線。

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SOLACE LONDON Mirabelle pleated dress

Mirabelle pleated dress SOLACE LONDON HK$3,801 View Item

SOLACE LONDON Mirabelle pleated dress

Fitted summer dress NEUL HK$2,618 View Item

TWIN-SET printed pleat dress

Printed pleat dress TWIN-SET HK$2,337 View Item

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI

Sandra floral-print pleated dress PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI HK$14,350 View Item

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