Style Dictionary:惡補時尚知識!高跟鞋也有這麼多區分 -

Style Dictionary:惡補時尚知識!高跟鞋也有這麼多區分

HF Crewon July 17, 2015 at 12:00 am

女人買鞋買得多,但是有關鞋的款式和英文名稱你又講得出幾多?高跟鞋,原來除了high heels這個人人皆知的英文名稱之外,還有其他稱呼?這次,讓我們一起來認識更多關於Pumps的知識吧!

The Origin

history of pumps
Photo via blog.udn, wxuse
history of pumps
Photo via blog.udn, wxuse

High heels和Pumps的起源是16世紀中後期。1660年,法國國王路易十四將High heel首次引至男裝領域,身材矮小的他鍾情以高跟鞋和高挺假髮示人,一度帶領當時法國的時尚潮流。而Pumps剛開始時是跳舞用薄底軟身的皮革平底鞋,到19世紀變化成裝飾著蝴蝶結絲帶的低跟鞋子。20世紀以後開始用來搭配晚裝裙,並發展出愈來愈多樣式。

Pumps VS High heels

到底 Pumps和High heels該怎樣區別?從字面上看,High heels指定了高跟的鞋款,Pumps的範圍涵蓋相對更廣。因此,根據鞋跟高度,我們可以將Pumps分為以下兩類:

#Classic Pumps

classic pumps
Illustration by Cyan F/ ©HOKK fabrica

一般鞋跟高度為2至3吋,鞋跟較粗,鞋底較厚,一般有圓頭、尖頭、露趾款式。視為保守類型的高跟鞋,較適合在工作場合上穿著。

editor's pick pumps
Our Picks
1 復古PUREGREEN 80’’ pumps, HK$403, available at ETSY
2 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Pumps, HK$4075, available at SHOPBOP
3 LUCCA Women pumps, HK$1,235, available at ETSY
4 ZALORA BASICS pumps, HKD$100, available at ZALORA

#High-heeled Pumps

high heeled pumps
Illustration by Cyan F/ ©HOKK fabrica

基本上,鞋跟高度達4至8吋就可以歸類為高跟鞋。Stiletto款式的鞋跟非常高和幼細,亦即是我們所說的「斗零踭」。若要搭配這類型高跟鞋,一件cocktail dress絕對是最佳選擇。除此外,還可以大膽嘗試配襯緊身牛仔褲的casual造型或是搭配高腰闊腿長褲,有型入格的時尚風格絕對讓人眼前一亮。

high heel pumps street style
Photos via theguardian, glamradar, Daniellecofezer
high heel pumps street style
Photos via theguardian, glamradar, Daniellecofezer
high heel pumps street style
Photos via theguardian, glamradar, Daniellecofezer
editor's pick high heel pumps
Our Picks
1 NASTY GAL How high pump, HK$605, available at NASTY GAL
2 VERSUS Black stiletto pumps, US$410, available at SSENSE
3 ALICE + OLIVIA Stacey pumps, HK$2795, available at SHOPBOP
4 MATINA White court heels, US$42, available at CHOIES

在兩大類別基礎上,由於鞋頭和鞋身設計也具有多樣變化,對個別款式作出細緻分類包括:

#Open-toe Pumps

open toe pumps
Illustration by Cyan F/ ©HOKK fabrica
editor's pick open toe pumps
Our Picks
1 BADGLEY MISCHKA pumps,HK$1,223, available at SHOPBOP
2 LILLY’S CLOSET heels, HK$479, available at ZALORA
3 ENGINEERED BY DESIGN 6 pumps, HK$247, available at ETSY

#Sling-back Pumps

Sling-back Pumps
Illustration by Cyan F/ ©HOKK fabrica

這類型的鞋款最明顯的特徵就是腳踝後綁帶設計,同樣以3至5吋高度最普遍。

editor's pick sling back heels
Our Picks
1 THE_SEVENTH Blue shoes, HK$375, available at CHOIES
2 復古ARCHETYPEVINTAGE platform heels, HK$415, available at ETSY
3 NINE WEST slingback heels, HK$875, available at ZALORA
4 KATE SPADE NEW YORK slingback heels, HK$2,546, available at SHOPBOP

#Kitten heels

kitten heels
Illustration by Cyan F/ ©HOKK fabrica

專指那些1.5至2吋的低跟鞋。這類鞋款曾於上世紀50年代風行,Audrey Hepburn更是其中經典的風尚代表。

Audrey Hepburn kitten heels
Photo via HuffingtonPost
editor's pick kitten heels
Our Picks
1 LEMON TREE Black chunky heels, US$45, available at CHOIES
2 NINE WEST Kweenbee pointy heels, HK$500, available at ZALORA
3 KOUMI KOUMI heels with bow, HK$162, available at ZALORA
4 復古STARLETS VINTAGE heels, HK$183, available at ETSY

#Wedges

Wedges
Illustration by Cyan F/ ©HOKK fabrica

這類楔型鞋款式最先在1930年代由義大利鞋履設計師Salvatore Ferragamo創作出來,容易行走和舒適感就是它最大的特色。

editor's pick wedges
Our Picks
1 DOLCE VITA sandals, HK$825, available at PACSUN
2 CHARLES & KEITH wedges, HK$350, available at ZALORA
3 ALICE + OLIVIA Jenna daisy wedges, HK$1,603, available at SHOPBOP
4 JEFFREY CAMPBELL Jovia leather wedge, HK$$601, available at NASTY GAL

#Platforms

platforms
Illustration by Cyan F/ ©HOKK fabrica

即是在鞋頭底部有一層厚底,也就是我們所說的防水台。一般認為厚底高跟鞋減低腳部弧度和壓力增添舒適度,可以說是Stiletto鞋款的變形。

editor's pick platforms
Our Picks
1 EDGE Cindy color block platform heels, HK$100, available at ZALORA
2 STUART WEITZMAN pumps, HK$3299, available at SHOPBOP
3 AMMIEJOYCE Champagne lace wedding shoes, HK$781, available at ETSY
4 CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA pumps, US$655, available at SSENSE
女人對於高跟鞋又愛又恨。它帶給女人最愛的修長腿部線條和性感步姿,但也帶來了深刻的痛楚。如今,愈來愈多鞋履設計師為女性考慮舒適的穿著體驗,將時尚和舒適融合到多樣化的高跟鞋設計當中,這也許讓那些不敢穿、不懂穿高跟鞋的女生,終於能一償穿高跟鞋的心願吧。

TEXT: KWAN

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